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How is it that Jerash is the most well-preserved Roman city in the world, and it isn’t even a primary tourist attraction? I suppose that’s what happens when you play little brother to a place like Petra. Most tourists skip this amazing site, which is easily accessible only 30 miles north of Amman.
This ancient city has been inhabited for centuries. Founded by Greeks in 331 BC, it was then conquered by Romans, invaded by Persians, largely destroyed by an earthquake, conquered by the Byzantines, invaded again by Muslims, and finally destroyed during the Crusades after which it lay buried in sand and hidden from the world until rediscovery and restoration in the 20th century. Its a long and complicated history.
These days, the ancient ruins lay right alongside a major highway and the modern city of Jerash.
The main Colonnade Street, which would have had hundreds of columns in its day. (Note that it isn’t the same street as you see above – there are two roads lined with an impressive amount of columns.)
We have been listening to a lot of podcasts lately about the history of Rome, which made these ruins a bit more interesting for us. I used to be fascinated by ancient Rome, but like many things I learned in high school, I’ve completely forgotten most of what I was taught. The podcasts are helping bring back some of those history lessons. Biggest takeaway: Romans liked going to war and conquering things. This explains why one of their greatest remaining ruins is in far away Jordan.
A guy who wanted us to pay him to guide us around told us this is where the Romans used to make wine. I’m not sure if that’s true or not. After overhearing some of the absurdities guides spouted to tourists at Machu Picchu I’ve been hesitant to believe anything anyone says about ancient ruins anymore.
The South Theatre…
…and The Temple of Zeus, built by the Greeks.
John doing his best version of what I have deemed “tourist pose.” Why does everyone do this everywhere? It’s not that cool…
They used to reenact chariot races at these ruins, but recently stopped because there weren’t enough tourists coming in to support the business. It’s a shame – from what I’ve heard the chariot races here were pretty fun to watch. I can’t say I’m surprised they weren’t doing enough business, though, as this place was nearly empty.

It’s no Petra, but Jerash was certainly worth the visit. Petra photos will be coming soon!